Furbabies and Toddlers

By: Samantha Haines, RAHT

First a bit of background information.

For those of you that do not know I am a Registered Veterinary Technologist and a Certified Canine Master Trainer. I have worked at the Sechelt Animal Hospital for almost 7 years, after moving to the Sunshine Coast to get married and start a family.

Koda

My Smudgie Cat

Simone (aka Brown Dog)



 

I have always been in love with animals.  My fur babies include my 9 year old border collie mix named Koda, my 6 year old German Shepard named Simone, and my very special cat named Smudgie.  For most of my adult life these creatures have been the loves of my life, my secret keepers and my companions.  I have been involved with the Canadian Kennel Club (C.K.C.), Canadian Association of Rally Obedience (C.A.R.O.) and have competed with my dogs in both.  The decision to have a child was made, and I knew this might be difficult for my fur babies.

My dogs were the ring bearers at my wedding and were escorted down the isle by my bridesmaids.

After my son was born in 2009, the usual life changing events occurred for them.  Suddenly they were not my whole world, but only just a part of it.  They were still loved, fed and well cared for, but our lives had changed.  Their daily walks were reduced, they spent more time sleeping on the floor instead of on the bed, and training became nil. 

In the early days, Smudgie stayed always just out of reach

At first adjusting to the newborn was easy: they were curious, got up with me in the middle of the night, and snuggled close by with me and the baby.  But as my son started to get older things started to change.  My son became louder, mobile and as all babies do...rough.  The dogs in particular became agitated and afraid.  This was extremely painful for me to watch.  Not only did I feel bad for them but I also worried for the safety of my son.  My oldest dog, Koda, even began to growl at my son.  I knew that I had to do something before something worse happened.  A baby gate was used to keep the dogs and the baby separate, allowing the dogs to only be in the family room when my son was sleeping in his room.  I was mortified and embarrassed that this is what I had to do to them, but it was the only option to keep both parties safe. 

As my son grew he became more capable of biting, hitting and harassing the pets.
Occasionally he would manage to pin the cat down, but thankfully my cat is very patient and never used claws or teeth.

After my son's first birthday, things started changing again.  Now that he was on the move he was of course infatuated with the dogs.  He wanted to pat them (although still quite rough), occasionally pull on their fur, and chase them around the house.  This only increased their anxiety and fear.  So whenever he would come towards them, (possibly not even to see them) they would scatter on the laminate floors often knocking him over in the process, ending in tears from him and again banishment to behind the gate for the dogs.  This actually resulted in both parties being afraid of each other.  My heart was broken. 

Over the next 3 months (my son was now 18-20 months) every time he came close to the dogs, I gave them a treat.  My son thought that this was a very fun game, and so it went on.  The dogs eventually decided that it was easier to just sit still and wait for the cookie.  The game progressed so that instead of me giving the dogs the cookie, it came directly from my son.  The dogs' fear and anxiety became less and less.   We are constantly teaching him how to be gentle and the proper way to approach the dogs and cat. Now as he runs around the house thrashing his toys and yelling "dogdogdog" they don't scatter but calmly wait for the cookie; or if need be just slowly walk away, being careful not to run right into him.  Simone now allows him to pet her and enjoys playing chase and fetch with him.  Koda is still not so forgiving, but has definitely become more tolerable of him.  I still am always watching when they are in the same room, and allowing the dogs to retreat behind the gate when they choose to; but now it is their choice, not a mandatory banishment. 

 

 

Living with pets and toddlers can be very difficult.  Not all pets are going to enjoy the manhandling that comes along with  having small humans around.  The important thing is to not force the relationship but to allow a safe environment for each to coexist.  It is imperative to remember that your dog (regardless of size) and cat can turn and very seriously harm a child very quickly.  They can be a very dangerous combination and should never be left without supervision.  We cannot expect that our pets will instantly want to be apart of our children's lives, but it is up to us to teach both child and pet the right way to behave in each others company.

Snuggle time with the cat

Tipping the scale

Written by: Samantha Haines
Registered Animal Health Technologist

As a society we are trained from a young age to watch our weight.  We are constantly bombarded by ads, supermodels and movie stars.  Many of us might even be on the Atkins diet, weight watchers, or other diet/excercise programs. While we are counting each calorie that we reach for, we are tossing treats to our pets without a thought as to how this might affect our best friend.

Many times I find myself saying "Buster is overweight," and the owner will always have some excuse to explain why he might be that way.  "Oh he just filling out," "Thats just his breed," or "He's just fluffy."  I'm sorry... filling out what?  Supersize my Yorkie?  Obesity is just as real for them as it is for you and me, and until we can accept and recognize obesity in our pets, we can't help them.

So how do we know if Buster is actually overweight?  How can we possibly know, when a dog can come in every size imaginable? Each patient is scored on a scale from 1-9 or 1-5, regardless of breed, size and weight.

 

Get yourself accustomed to this chart, and know what to look for. An ideal dog/cat is a 3/5 or  4-5/9 Be honest with Buster and yourself. You are not doing him any favors by sugar coating the truth. 

So why do we care so much about obesity?  We estimate that 60-70 % of our patients are overweight.  Obesity leads to the same things that it does in people.  Heart disease, liver disease, diabetes, arthritis, pain, reduced mobility and a decreased quality of life, need I say more?

Weight loss in our pets can be challenging, especially with cats.  Try telling your cat to get some excercise.  I am sure that will go over well!  Together through nutrition, excercise and veterinary care we can help your pet shed those extra pounds.

Your veterinarian will help decide if there are any underlying conditions that might be contributing to weight gain (hypothyroidism, cushings disease, tumors etc.), and other medical conditions that need to be taken into consideration when selecting a weight loss diet.  We can then help you to find a diet that might be a suitable solution for weight loss for your pet.  Our goal is not to starve your pet, or deprive him of nutrients, but to put him on a controlled weight loss program based on nutrition and science. 

Our Veterinary Technicians are trained in canine and feline nutrition and can assist you in making good choices for your pet.  Please call the office to book a Nutritional Consultation for your pet today.

How do I know when it is time to say goodbye?

This is always a very difficult question.  The choice of euthanasia is a difficult one, but can also be one of the kindest desicions we make for our furry little friends.  "How do you know when it is time?" is a question that I hear on a daily basis in my job.   The veterinarian and the staff can assist you in making an objective assessment of the patient, but it ultimatley comes down to you.  Your endpoint is going to be different from your neighbours and your friends.  So how do we make this objective assessment?

Dr. Alice Villalobos, the veterinarian who started Pawspice, a quality of life program for terminal pets, has published a scoring system for life quality called The HHHHHMM scale. The letters stand for: Hurt, Hunger, Hydration, Hygiene, Happiness, Mobility, and More Good Days than Bad.

Quality of Life Scale: The HHHHHMM Scale
Pet caregivers can use this Quality of Life Scale to determine the success of pawspice care. Score patients using a scale of 1 to 10.  (Where 10 is a healthy animal)
Score	Criterion
1-10	HURT - Adequate pain control, including breathing ability, is first and foremost on the scale. Is the pet's pain successfully managed? Is oxygen necessary?
1-10	HUNGER - Is the pet eating enough? Does hand feeding help? Does the patient require a feeding tube?
1-10	HYDRATION - Is the patient dehydrated? For patients not drinking enough, use subcutaneous fluids once or twice daily to supplement fluid intake.
1-10	HYGIENE - The patient should be brushed and cleaned, particularly after elimination. Avoid pressure sores and keep all wounds clean.
1-10	HAPPINESS - Does the pet express joy and interest? Is the pet responsive to things around him or her (family, toys, etc.)? Is the pet depressed, lonely, anxious, bored or afraid? Can the pet's bed be close to the family activities and not be isolated?
1-10	MOBILITY - Can the patient get up without assistance? Does the pet need human or mechanical help (e.g., a cart)? Does the pet feel like going for a walk? Is the pet having seizures or stumbling? (Some caregivers feel euthanasia is preferable to amputation, yet an animal who has limited mobility but is still alert and responsive can have a good quality of life as long as caregivers are committed to helping the pet.)
1-10	MORE GOOD DAYS THAN BAD - When bad days outnumber good days, quality of life might be compromised. When a healthy human-animal bond is no longer possible, the caregiver must be made aware the end is near. The decision needs to be made if the pet is suffering. If death comes peacefully and painlessly, that is okay.
*TOTAL	*A total over 35 points represents acceptable life quality

Adapted by Villalobos, A.E., Quality of Life Scale Helps Make Final Call, VPN, 09/2004, for Canine and Feline Geriatric Oncology Honoring the Human-Animal Bond, by Blackwell Publishing, Table 10.1, released 2006.

How is euthanasia performed?
Euthanasia is performed using an overdose of an anesthetic drug.  This drug is injected into the vein, so it is necessary to place an IV catheter.  We will carefully do this with the least amount of stress possible for you and your beloved pet.  Should the patient stress or struggle the Veterinarian may give a sedative.  Once you are ready, the veterinarian will inject the drug through the IVport.  This overdose will stop her heart quickly.  The veterinarian will confirm that there is no heart beat using a stethoscope.  You are always welcome to hold her in your arms during the final moments if you wish.  After the procedure you may stay as long as you wish to say your final goodbye.

If you prefer, this service can be done at your house, or in your pet's favorite place under the apple tree. Please call to discuss this with a staff member.

What happens after the procedure?
You have 3 options for your pet's aftercare.  You can have her cremated, either privately or in a group. A private cremation means that he will go in alone and her ashes will be returned to you in a beautiful urn. You may also choose to bury her on your property. Please ensure the grave is deep enough to prevent other animals from digging her up.

For more information about cremation please visit Until We Meet Again Pet Memorial Center

If you are considering euthanasia, discuss your pet's condition with your veterinarian.

Should Pitbulls Be Banned in BC?

By: Samantha Haines
Reg. Animal Health Technologist

 
Before I even start, I would like to make one thing very clear: The following is my own personal opinion and does not necessarily reflect the opinion of the Sechelt Animal Hospital.

 There was an editorial in The Province today entitled “It’s time to ban Pit Bulls in B.C.”.  The opinion of the author was that B.C. should follow Ontario’s lead in breed banning.  The author mentions an attack on a little girl named Emma-Leigh, and my heart goes out to her family.

I don’t pretend to know exactly what went down that day with Emma, but in the article it says that the dog was owned by a neighbor, and that everyone was together at a BBQ. I know that even the best of dogs can become agitated when confronted with children, delicious food and lots of people, especially if it’s all at once; given the circumstances, I am certainly not placing blame on anyone. Now don't get me wrong, in light of what happened I agree that this particular dog should be put down, but is banning the breed really going to solve anything?

I know of a few people that have moved to BC specifically because of the Pit Bull ban in Ontario. If we start banning the breed here, we are going to lose more people to other provinces, particularly young people, which (according to the article) are the primary owner of the breed, and we all know that BC is drastically lacking young families (especially around the Sunshine Coast).

I am a veterinary professional, I have never been bitten by a pitty, and in fact I prefer working with Pit Bulls over Chihuahuas or Dachshunds (aka: the Land Sharks)! At the end of the day, I treat every dog that I see, in or out of my job, with caution, because they are ALL potentially dangerous; however, they also ALL have an equal potential to be wonderful.  

Pit Bulls are generally gentle creatures and have a high tolerance for pain, but when and if they bite they can do a lot of damage. True, their jaws are stronger than most breeds, and they are bred to fight, but they are bred to fight other dogs, not their owners. There are many other breeds that have been bred for fighting and/or taking down their prey - Karelian Bear Dog, Akita, Rottweiler and even the Rhodesian Ridgeback. Should we start banning these breeds by association?

Then there’s the child-dog dynamic. This can be a wonderful relationship, but the fact is that 73% of dog bite injuries involve children (regardless of breed). A child and a dog should never be left alone together. I don't care if your Aunt says its ok, or your dog has never had a problem with kids. Kids move fast, they are not always aware of the things in their surroundings, they are even less aware of canine body language and behavior, and children can be unpredictable (just like dogs).  Should we never allow our children to experience the joy that having a dog can bring? Of course not, but just as we teach our dogs to play nice with children, we must also teach our children to play nice with dogs.  This involves teaching them about body language, warning signs, and appropriate responses.

In the online poll this article presents, the public is asked to vote “Yes” or “No” on whether or not B.C. should ban Pit Bulls. 60% of readers are saying "NO" to breed bans. This, in my opinion, is not a wide enough margin to draw conclusive results.  The author talks about how “Pit Bull owners say many things in defense of their dogs”, but fails to mention the people who speak against the breed based on hearsay and myth.

There are only bad owners not bad dogs right? I have heard this many times, and I agree to some extent, but, as with most things in life, there are two sides to every story.  Owners do need to take more responsibility for their dogs, and learn to seriously evaluate if a breed is right for their lifestyle and personality; for example, a young person who has had no experience with dogs should not be getting a Pit Bull just because they like the look of the dog, or just because they like the breed.  However, a young person with both dog and breed experience, who has a good understanding of dog behavior and appropriate training methods would be a great Pit Bull owner.  Unfortunately, people are not always smart about the decisions they make, and all too often this ends in disaster for the animals involved.  By the same token, I believe that any dog has the ability to seriously harm a person under the right circumstances. Even the most well trained dog is just that... a dog. Their basic instincts remain unchanged, and we cannot expect them to be little humans in fur coats.

Why must we all feel the need to take our pets to public events where they may be put in a circumstance that they are uncomfortable with? I am the first one to admit that my dogs are part of my family; they were even included in my wedding ceremony. Yet, I know my dog’s limitations: I know that they are not comfortable with parades, fireworks, and other large gatherings. It’s not that I feel that they would hurt someone, but I can tell that they are out of their comfort zone, and are not enjoying themselves. Now many dogs do, but it is up to the owner to be able to read your dog’s body language and speak for your dog. Your dog trusts you and your leadership, therefore you should never put your dog in a situation where he/she would feel uncomfortable or threatened.

The article says "watch a dog park clear" when a Pit Bull arrives on the scene. This says absolutely nothing about the dog; however it paints a very clear picture on society’s perception of the breed. It just means that we have been made to believe that these dogs are dangerous. I have a German Shepard, so I often get a similar reaction from the poorly informed public.  People and their dogs cross the street so they don't have to be near her, but I often find that both frustrating and enjoyable. On the plus side, I don't have people begging me to pet her, but on the negative I feel unfairly judged.

IF the breed is to be at fault, perhaps we can make the breeding and ownership of these dogs more difficult. The people who buy these dogs need to understand that their dog can be both a dangerous weapon AND a beloved family pet, and as such should be treated that way.  Instead of banning the breed, make spaying and neutering mandatory, as well as training in obedience and body language for both owner and dog.  Breeders should be regularly evaluated according to strict standards, and dangerously aggressive animals should be culled from breeding programs.  Maybe this should be the norm for all dogs regardless of breed.

Links: Editorial in The Province

Karen Pryor Children and Dogs

Video for kids Part 1, Part 2

Dog bite support group

Anesthesia Free Dentistry: Friend or Foe?

By: Samantha Haines
Reg. AHT


I was recently asked this question in an exam room by a concerned pet owner "Why can't we do anesthesia-free dentistry on my pet?"

Anesthesia-free dentistry or more appropriately called Non Professional Dental Scaling (NPDS) is becoming more common in our pets due to money constraints and anesthesia concerns.  The American Veterinary Dental College states clearly that anyone providing dental services other than a licensed veterinarian, or a supervised and trained veterinary technician, is practising veterinary
medicine without a license and shall be subject to criminal charges.   Unfortunately many grooming facilities and NPDS clinics are providing this service as a way to increase revenue.

There are many reasons why NPDS is not an appropriate treatment for your pet.

Safety - As you can imagine, our pets do not like to sit still very long.  Even our best patients do not enjoy a thorough dental examination let alone a scale and polish.  Scaling below the gumline is uncomfortable and any movement from the patient can cause damage to the tissues.  Working this closely to an animal's mouth poses health risks for the people involved.

NPDS is purely cosmetic - A professional dental cleaning involves scaling both above and below the gum line, followed by polishing. The most important area to focus on when cleaning the teeth is the area within the gingival pocket.  This is the area between the root and the gum tissue. It is impossible to reach all these areas on our canine and feline patients without anesthesia.  Scaling the tartar from the crowns is purely for esthetic purposes, and leaves active disease in your pet.

By ignoring the disease below the gumline we are doing our patients a great unkindness by allowing the disease to run rampid though our pet's bloodstreams affecting all organs in the body including kidneys, liver and heart.

This link is an excellent article with detailed pictures that clearly shows that teeth are like icebergs, and what may look good on the surface, may not be the case under water.
http://veterinarydentistry.net/blog/2010/12/20/anesthesia-free-dentistry-dogs-pet/

American Veterinary Dental College Position Statement

So lets talk about money...
Some compaines will provide NPDS for your pet at an average cost of $200.  They are only looking at the outer surface of the teeth, and only what they can see on the crown or surface of the tooth (ie. nothing below the gumline).  So lets call this 25% clean!  Here at Sechelt Animal Hospital we include pre-anesthesic blood panel, inhalant anesthesia, pain control, and a complete scale and polish which is 100% clean for a grand total of $330 including taxes.  You tell me which is more bang for your buck!

Anesthesia is never without risk, but we are committed to providing your pet with the safest possible plan.  For more on anesthesia please read our article titled "Anesthesia - Is it Safe."

It is important that regular dental hygiene is practised at home and professional dental cleanings are performed yearly to prevent oral disease.

Where's Fido?

Pet Identification

Every pet should have some sort of identification.   After all, pet identification is in place not for everyday life, but for those unforeseen events that result in lost pets.  For the time the wind blows the fence down and the dog runs scared from the yard, or a guest leaves the front door open long enough for the wouldn’t-survive-more-than-30-seconds-in-the-wild indoor only Persian to sneak out.  Not to mention the natural disasters like floods and forest fires that send communities into chaos and force pet owners to abandon their pets in their neighborhoods or at temporary shelters as they run for their lives.   As a former animal shelter employee and “lifer” Animal Health Technician, I have re-united many a lost pet thanks to good identification.

In this blog post I will summarize the ways in which you can identify your pet to better help you decide which one will work best for you.

Pet Tags

Pet tags are a cheap, simple, and highly effective way to identify your pet.  They can be purchased at many pet stores and engraving facilities, often for around $10-$20.  They are very visible and if you put your address and phone number on the tag, whoever picks up your lost pet can very simply return it to you, often bypassing the animal shelter.  You can also have extra information engraved on the tag if your pet has a critical medical condition like “Addisons: needs daily medication” or “diabetic”.  That way if your pet is found ill, the finder will know to seek veterinary attention.

An alternative to the tag is to simply write your phone number on your pet’s collar in permanent marker.  I’ve seen this on some of my patients and I think it brilliant!  And it’s free!

The down side of pet ID Tags is that they require that your pet be wearing his/her collar.  This can be difficult with cats.  And it seems that many dogs go missing right after a bath, or the same day that the collar went in the laundry.

Tattoos

ID Tattoos are different than a breeder tattoo.  Breeders will often tattoo the belly (sometimes the ear) of each puppy in the litter to identify them and help with registration.  These tattoos often fade and become distorted as the puppy grows and are difficult to trace when a pet is lost.

 ID Tattoos are a series of letter and numbers placed in the right ear in either green or black ink.  They cost about $35.  ID tattoos are placed by veterinary clinics usually at the time of spay or neuter.  Tattoos require that a pet be under anaesthetic.  The CVBC (the veterinary governing body) has a system of letters and numbers assigned to veterinary clinics so an animal will always be traced back to the clinic that did the tattoo.  The clinic keeps records of these tattoos and can then trace the tattoo back to the owner of the pet.  This is why it is so important to keep your address and phone number current with the vet clinic that tattooed your pets. 

The system of numbers and letters used is unique to each province.  There is no nation-wide tattoo system.  If you move to another province or country with a tattooed pet, you may want to consider getting another form of identification.

Microchips

A microchip is a very small device (about the size of a grain of rice) that can be injected under the skin with a large bore needle.  It does not require anaesthetic and can be done right in the exam room.  Contrary to common belief, the microchip does not have any source of power and does not emit any radiation or electrical signal.  After placement, the microchip is read with a battery powered scanner that is waved over the pet, much the same way that the bar code on our groceries is read at the checkout.

The readout on the scanner is a series of numbers and letters.  Animal hospital and shelter staff have access to information that helps them determine which company the chip belongs to.  They can then contact that company with the microchip number and get the owners contact information. 

The advantage of this system is that you can store unlimited amounts information about your pet in the microchip company’s system.  Pet insurance info, vaccine info, medical info, all available to the shelter or vet clinic even if you aren’t!  And most companies make updating your information very easy via a 1-800 number or website.  At Sechelt Animal Hospital we use chips from M4SID which allows you to update and change information as much as you want for no additional fees.  The cost of the chip is roughly $40 and that includes a lifetime registration.  Beware of companies that require a yearly fee to maintain registration or ones that charge you to change your information.

The only downside of microchips is that they are not easily visible to the finder of the pet and that the pet must be taken to an animal hospital or shelter to have the chip read.   If your pet is microchipped you may want to add another piece of ID like a collar tag.

Adopt a Senior!

By Lisa Horne, R.A.H.T.                


                As an AHT, it really makes my day when people bring in their adorable puppies and kittens for me to play with.  I get to handle them, wrestle with them, watch them sleep, feed them cookies, and get puppy and kitten kisses all during my initial physical exam.  Even when the vet comes in to vaccinate, I love that I get to be a source of comfort for these “traumatized” babies; I love that even after a shot, they are usually just so happy to be adored that they forget about that unpleasant part of their vet visit.  The best part comes after I get my puppy/kitten cuddle time: I get to send them home.

                Don’t get me wrong:  I love puppies and kittens (who doesn’t?), but it’s really nice to give them back to Mom or Dad before they start crying, having accidents all over the floor, waking me up in the middle of the night, chewing holes in my pants or shoes, or wearing me out before my day is even half over with their endless energy.

                When most people go looking for a new fur-baby to add to the family, they want puppies and kittens; the rationale behind this is that they will have more time with the pet, be able to raise them so they become more bonded to the family as they grow up, and, of course, because they’re just so darn cute.  What many people fail to consider is the amount of destruction these cuties can cause, and the amount of work they really are.  My suggestion: adopt a senior. “But wait,” you say, “don’t seniors have their own set of problems?”  The answer is “Yes, but …”   

If you get a puppy that is, for example, a German Shepard Cross, that puppy may grow to anywhere between 20-50kg!  That’s a huge size variation and many people end up giving up their dogs when they’ve grown bigger than they expected.  With a senior, you don’t have to worry about that because they are as big as they’re going to get.  As far as behavior problems go, getting a puppy or kitten is a bit of a gamble; you never know what kind of adult they’ll grow up to be, but with a senior most behavioral problems are already known, so there’ll be no surprises; with seniors, you know exactly what you are getting yourself into.  Most seniors also come with some basic training under their belts, and (in general) have calmer dispositions than puppies/kittens; you may have to brush up on your “sits” and “stays” but they have the maturity and experience to pay attention and pick things up quickly.  Seniors also still enjoy the companionship that you can offer, but don’t need the supervision that a puppy or kitten would.  As far as bonding with your pet, you don’t have to raise it from a baby to make this happen; in fact, many seniors bond very strongly to their new owners because they’ve never known a good home, or perhaps they had a good home once and they appreciate that you can provide the security and love that they miss.  You can even teach your senior new tricks (contrary to the old wives tale); in fact, this will actually be beneficial as it provides mental stimulation for aging brains, and give you both a fun activity to do together.         

                Many people assume that getting a senior means they can’t go on long hikes, or play with the “fun” cat-toys.  This is FALSE!  I know a lot of senior dogs and cats that can put the young ones to shame with their ball-catching, bush-whacking, and wrestle-mania skills; I love watching older dogs playing with the “teenage” pups because not only can they hold their own, but they teach the young ones everything from play techniques to proper manners.  Obviously there are some limits to this, ie.  you wouldn’t put a feeble 20 year old toy poodle out to play with a strapping 18 month old mastiff, but  the main thing to take away from this is that old-age does not mean they have to be sequestered at home alone with no activities; if something is too much for them to handle, they will let you know.  As a natural process of aging, seniors will start to lose some energy and start having a hard time getting up the stairs, or slowing down on those long hikes; when this happens, it does not mean that they no longer want to do the activity.  Proper pain control (like Metacam or Deramaxx), and/or joint friendly diets (like Mobility or j/d) can help seniors continue to do the things they love in a way that is comfortable.  Sometimes all they need is a cushy bed, or a ramp to get in and out of the car.  Doing physiotherapy or massage therapy treatments at home are not only a good way to make your senior’s joints and muscles feel better, but it’s a great and relaxing way for both of you to bond.  Also, if you've had a long day and you just don’t feel like walking the dog, a senior will be alright with that too.  Try telling your very active Labrador puppy that you’ve had a long day and don’t feel up to a long walk; I guarantee you that puppy will fill your evening with chewed walls, barking, and forced playtime (they’re not being malicious, of course, they just have no other way to spend their overflowing energy). 

What about life span?  If you get a puppy or kitten, you could have it for 20 years potentially!  That’s great, but seniors have a lot of years left in them, too.  Think about it this way: let’s say you adopt an 8 year old cat.  Officially, that cat is a senior, but it’s still got anywhere between 4 to 12 years left!  That’s a lot of time.  Sure it’s not as much as you’d get with a kitten, but they’re still good years, and seniors can provide just as much entertainment and companionship.                     

    Alright, we’ve gone over the pros; let’s talk about the cons of adopting a senior.  The biggest one?  Increased vet bills.  Young pets need to see a vet at least once a year; seniors need to see their vet about twice a year and they need to have extra diagnostic work done.  This is not because your vet is trying to squeeze more money out of you; it’s because when an animal (or a person for that matter) enters their senior years, their various body parts start to decline.  Seeing your veterinarian every 6 months allows them to run bloodwork, take x-rays, and do a physical exam so that these issues of old age can be caught early, before they start to cause problems.  Cancer is more common in senior pets, but many cancers can be cured with medical and/or surgical treatments if caught early.  Some conditions, like chronic renal failure can’t be cured, but they can be slowed down, and         

the earlier you treat these conditions, the earlier you can start slowing down the disease’s progression.  Along with joint and organ decline, brain function also declines.  Dogs and cats can suffer from senility just like people and this often manifests itself as, for example, going in and out all day with that “why did I come out here?” look on their faces.  This can be helped with nutritional supplements, like DHA, or with diets geared towards improving brain fuction, like b/d; the problem will never go away, but with your patience, it doesn’t have to mean a poor quality of life.  This seems like a lot of money compared to a puppy or kitten, but there are a few things to consider.  For one thing, puppies and kittens will turn into seniors eventually, so you will have to pay for puppy and kitten related costs as well as senior costs down the line.  Also, if you adopt from a shelter, your senior would be spayed or neutered already, so there’s a major expense that you don't have to worry about.  As far as ongoing senior related problems, many shelters are already treating them so you would cover the cost of continuing treatment, not for starting it. 

                Seniors may also suffer from incontinence.  This is understandably a big problem for most people as they don’t want their house smelling like urine and feces because their pet can no longer control their excretory functions.  There are some medications, like Propalin, that can stop urinary incontinence, but otherwise it’s very frustrating to deal with.  Most incontinence occurs while the pet is sleeping, so it’s easy enough to just cover their bed with a pee pad, but this is a very frustrating problem for owners, as well as for their pets, and often results in the decision to euthanize.  One of the hardest things about owning a pet is determining when it’s time for euthanasia.  That being said, it’s a decision that you will deal with at some point no matter how old they were at the time of adoption.

                Seniors do come with their own set of issues, just like puppies and kittens do, but the best reason you could have for adopting a senior over a young one is this: they need it.  Puppies and kittens are easy to adopt out, but many seniors are doomed to live out their lives in a shelter.  Many shelters are very nice places with staff who love them dearly, but it’s just not the same as having a home and family of their own.   

                People flip over puppies and kittens, including myself, but I think that well loved and well cared for older pets are some of the most beautiful creatures on earth, even with grey muzzles and stiff joints.  Seniors have a nobility about them and a look that speaks of all the years and all the love that they still have left to give.  I know when it comes time for me to adopt a new family member, I may be looking at the puppies and kittens, but I'll be  taking home and loving a senior.


All seniors pictured here are available for adoption through S.A.I.N.T.S.  (Senior Animals In Need Today Society)-->http://www.saintsrescue.ca/

Lyme Disease

It has recently come to my attention that I really do not know enough about tick borne diseases such as Lyme disease.  I have been dealing with these nasty little hitch hikers since moving to the Sunshine Coast 6 years ago.  In the last few years, it is not uncommon for me to pull 5-8 ticks from my 2 dogs every week in the spring and summer!  So lets start at the beginning!

The ticks that spread Lyme disease in B.C., Ixodes angustus and I. pacificus are tiny bugs, about the size of a sesame seed, and they feed on blood. Different ticks prefer different types of animals.  While most tick bites do not result in disease, some do.  In BC less than 1 percent of ticks tested carry the bacteria that cause Lyme disease, and there is only a very small chance of them giving it to you. However, the disease can be serious, so it is worth taking steps to avoid being bitten. 

Lyme disease is classified as a vector-borne, zoonotic illness – it is spread by ticks (the vector, or agent of transmission). The organism which causes Lyme disease is a spiral-shaped bacterium called Borrelia burgdorfei and it has been found in two species of ticks collected from many areas of B.C. including Vancouver Island, the Lower Mainland, the Sunshine Coast, the Fraser Valley and the Kootenays.

Avoiding exposure to ticks is the surest means of prevention, but here on the Sunshine Coast we have lots! After your dog has been out in wooded or deep grassy areas (ticks love cedar and arbutus trees!) do a thorough tick-check, which involves looking your dog over closely (especially around the armpits, face, and groin areas) for ticks. There are tick repellant products (collars and topical) available at the veterinary office.  Additionally, there is a vaccine against the organism that causes Lyme disease available at Sechelt Animal Hospital.

Some people think you can remove a tick by covering it with grease, gasoline or some other substance. This does not work! It only increases the chance of your pet getting an infection. Holding something hot (for example, a match or cigarette) against the tick also does NOT work! Again, this will only increase the chance of an infection or accidentally burning yourself or your pet.  The simplest way of removing ticks is by using a pair of tweezers or tick removing forceps and grabbing the tick as close to the skin as possible. Then using gentle, slow traction pull the tick straight off.  Do not squish, squeeze or twist.  After removal of the tick it is necessary to check it for all the mouth parts.  Leaving the mouth parts in the skin can lead to infection.  Once the tick is removed clean the area well with antibacterial soap, place the tick in a airtight container and dispose of it. If you are concerned or these little bugs give you the heebie jeebies, please allow us to remove it for you!

Tests are available that are quick, accurate and inexpensive. Your dog comes in for a simple blood test (less than 0.5 ml of blood is needed) and the test results are back the very next day. Should your dog be positive for exposure to the organism that causes Lyme disease we will consult with you on the next steps to take and start your dog on effective treatment as soon as possible. In endemic areas like the Sunshine Coast testing is recommended 6-8 weeks after exposure to ticks.  In my experience the ticks seem to be prevalent all year round, so as a general rule testing yearly with your annual vaccinations is the simplest.

If you are concerned about ticks and Lyme disease please feel free to contact our office to schedule an appointment.

Samantha 

Reg. AHT

What's the Big Deal? A nutrition update.

As you may have noticed there are some new diets on the shelf this year.  Medi-cal/Royal Canin as changed many of their formulations to accommodate your pet's individual needs.  The canine life-stage diets: Development, Preventive, Dental, and Weight Control/Mature have now been formulated specifically for small breeds and for large breeds.

The small breed diets not only have a smaller kibble designed for small mouths and jaws, but also are formulated to prevent the formation of urinary crystals and stones that small dogs are particularly prone to.

The large breed diets all have a larger kibble design for larger mouths and jaws, have an adjusted caloric count to prevent obesity, and contain EPA/DHA, glucosamine and chondrotin to reduce inflammation of the joints and support joint health in the large dog.

So... what about medium dogs you ask?

Each diet also will continue to carry the formulation that you have all been used to seeing, but they are now calling it the "all dog" formula.

They have also introduced a brand new diet - Weight Control Puppy for all the roly poly pups!
Weight Control/Mature has also been separated into Weight Control and Mature Consult.

So what does this mean to you and your pet?
It means that we can now customise your pet's diet for optimum health.

As you may be finding all these changes a little confusing, please feel free to contact or office and speak to any of the team members to find out which diet is going to be best for your dog's particular needs.

Samantha
Reg. AHT

Show me a Yorkie that can take down a Cow!

Should you feed your pet a raw food diet?

Dogs were domesticated from wolves approx. 10,000 to 135,000 years ago.  Recent DNA research shows that this occurred in stages in different areas, and that not all dog breeds came from the same wolf or from the same demographic area. Domestication of cats started much later than it did for dogs, about 8,000 years ago, with full domestication taking place only 4,000 years ago.  The primary ancestor of the domestic cat is believed to be the African wild cat, Felis libyca.  During this time, dogs were hunters and cats were vermin killers on the farms.  As we evolved from a hunting society to a farming society our needs also changed.

Dogs did not continue to hunt and eat raw foods once domesticated; they primarily eat out leftovers and scraps.  Because we have not consumed a raw diet since fire was discovered, our dogs did not eat raw food either.  Cats were domesticated for their ability to control small vermin on the farm, they have continued to eat a raw food diet for a much longer period of time.

Raw food diets are nutritionally superior to processed diets and are “what nature intended dogs and cats to eat.”

Myth: There is no scientific evidence showing that raw food diets are nutritionally superior to processed food.  All processed foods are required to meet AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) standards.  These standards can be met in one of 2 ways.  They can be formulated to meet AAFCO standards or feeding trials can be done.  Feeding trials are the preferred method, since this looks at the nutrient content and the nutrient loss due to processing and digestibility.  Raw food diets overall are not marketed as “complete and balanced” and therefore do not meet AAFCO standards because they have not done feeding trials.  Some raw diets have this claim and meet AFFCO standards, but this claim means that they are “complete and balanced” over a period of time, not for each meal.  Some raw food diets may be nutritionally superior to some commercial diets, such as poor quality foods that have not gone through feeding trials, use lower grade ingredients, and have high cereal contents.  Feeding any premium quality food would show an improvement just due to the increased quality of the ingredients used.  Pet food manufactures know what changes occur with the processing methods and supplement as needed to maintain optimum nutrient levels.

Domesticated species tolerate bacterial contamination in food without problems, even if they are pediatric, geriatric or critically ill animals.

There is no scientific evidence to support this claim, and in fact 3 studies have found either bacterial contamination in the food or dishes or death related to pathogenic bacteria directly related to the diet being fed. (Freeman and Michel, 2001; LeJeune and Hancock, 2001; Striver et al., 2003)  Many food borne pathogens can be found and cultured from these diets.  20-25 % of chicken carcasses intended for human consumption test positive for Salmonella organisms.  E.coli has been identified in dog feces being fed a raw food diet.  As much as 89 % of the commercially available raw meats may be contaminated with Yersinia enterocolitica.  There are also food borne parasitic infections that can also affect dogs and cats, including tapeworms of the bile duct, pancreatic duct and small intestines; the giant kidney worm, raccoon roundworms and Sarcocystis spp., Toxocara canis and Tricenella spiralis.

Uncooked food is more easily digested because it contains enzymes that cooking destroys.

Some nutrients are destroyed by heat, but not all heat sensitive nutrients are eliminated during the cooking process.  This is dependent on how the food was processed, stored and cooked.  Heat can affect proteins.  Proteins can be denatured.  This happens with egg whites when they are cooked – the albumin becomes denatured and easier for the body to digest.  Some proteins in meat also exist as enzymes.  Raw food manufactures say that these enzymes become inactive when cooked, but these enzymes also become inactive when the meet up with the digestive enzymes in the stomach.  There are other enzymes that are resistant to digestion and may or may not be affected by stomach acid or heat from cooking.  For the enzymes that are affected by heat there is little evidence to suggest that they are more beneficial to animals that eat them raw.  As carbohydrates are heated and cooled with water, the cells undergo a process called gelatinization.  The greater the degree of gelatinization, the greater the degree of digestibility.  The central nervous system and the red blood cells need glucose for energy, and this is most easily obtained from carbohydrates.  Remember that an excess will be stored as glycogen and fat.

Since there are no feeding trials done with the majority of raw food diets, their nutrient content, digestibility and supplementation levels are unknown. By using raw meats you are leaving yourself and your pet open to bacterial or parasitic infections, and there is no guarantee of improved health. 

Samantha
Reg. AHT

Bad Cat Diseases - FeLV, FIV, and FIP

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)

FIV is retrovirus that causes an immunodeficiency disease in domestic cats.  It has the same genus as HIV (aids in humans).  Infection disrupts the immune system function causing the cat to become more susceptible to secondary infections.  There is no cure, and treatment is limited to treating the secondary infections. Transmission is cat-to-cat through bite wounds, and occasionally it can be transmitted perinatally (during birthing). 

Prevention includes preventing contact with other cats, and screening prior to introducing new cats into the household.  There is a vaccine available, but only 60-80% efficacy after 3 doses.  Testing cannot distinguish between vaccinated and infected cats, so vaccinated cats will always test positive.

Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)

A systemic, viral disease characterized by insidious onset, persistent nonresponsive fever, pyogranulomatous tissue reaction, accumulation of exudative effusions in body cavities, and high mortality.  This virus is multisystemic affecting liver, kidneys, intestines, lungs, brain and eyes.  FIP is a reaction to infection with the feline coronavirus.  The coronavirus mutates and FIP is the result of immunocompromised young cats. FIP is a disease created by the cat’s own immune system.  There are 2 forms of FIP.  The “wet” form includes the effusion of thick, yellow fluid in the belly or chest.  The “dry” form is more insidious, leading to a long, slow death.  Both forms are felt to have 100% mortality. 

Transmission with coronavirus is primarily through infected feces.  Prevention is limited to preventing overcrowding, and exposure to infected feces.  We can test for positive antibodies to the virus, but it does not distinguish between coronavirus and FIP.  There is a vaccine available, but its efficacy is unknown.  There is no known cure or treatment available.

Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV)

FeLV is another retrovirus that causes an immunodeficiency disease in cats.  This virus is species specific and does not infect dogs or humans, but there is evidence of the disease in wild cats such as lynx, cheetah and lion.
After the initial infection, the virus replicates in the tonsils and pharyngeal lymph nodes (the pharynx is the muscular tube in the neck). Then it spreads via the bloodstream to other parts of the body, especially the lymph nodes, bone marrow, and intestinal tissue, where it continues to replicate. Viremia, the presence of virus in the blood, usually shows up 2 to 4 weeks after the initial infection.
FeLV usually spreads through infected saliva. It can also spread through infected urine, tears, and feces, and through an infected mother to her kittens during gestation and nursing. Methods of transmission include the following:

• Bite wounds from infected cats (more common among outdoor and indoor-outdoor cats)
• Blood transfusions
• Mouth and nose contact with infected saliva or urine
• Mutual grooming
• Nose-to-nose contact
• Shared food dishes and water bowls
• Shared litter trays
• Sneezing

Because cats normally may not appear to be sick until they are in an advanced state of illness, it is vital that cat owners pay close attention to their pets' day-to-day condition. Cats should be examined regularly for painful or swollen areas.  30% of cats infected with the disease will progress and die.  Treatments may help to slow the progression of disease, but are not 100& effective in all cases.
FeLV is one of the most devastating feline diseases worldwide.  Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) infection is responsible for more deaths among cats than any other infectious disease.


Samantha 
Reg.AHT

Anaestheia - How Safe is it?

The fact is, anaesthesia is as dangerous or as safe as your animal hospital makes it.  All anaesthesia contains risks.  Anaesthesia is defined as a state of controlled and and reversible unconsciousness characterized by a lack of pain sensation and a lack of memory, and relatively depressed reflex responses.  Ideally, it is the goal of the veterinarian and technician to achieve this with minimal affect on your pets vital systems, particularly circulation and respiration.  There are a series of steps your veterinarian and technician will take to ensure your pet’s anaesthetic goes as smooth and safe as possible.

Microscopic evaluation of blood

Typical red blood cells at100X

The first step is a thorough history from you, the client.  Your veterinarian needs to know how your pet has been doing at home.  Any signs of illness like coughing, sneezing, vomiting or diarrhea?  Has there been an increase in water consumption?  Any changes in behaviour?  Any relevant travel history?  Does your pet have a history of any medical problems?  Is your pet on any current medications or supplements?  Answers to these questions may give your veterinarian insight as to whether your pet is at risk for an illness or disease process that may affect his/her reaction to anaesthetic drugs.

The next step is a thorough physical examination by the veterinarian.  The vet will take your pets temperature, palpate his/her internal organs, assess hydration and evaluate his/her circulatory and respiratory systems.  This will further help the veterinarian assess health. 

Pre-anaesthetic blood work is the next vital step in creating a safe anaesthetic.  Blood chemistry helps the veterinarian determine the health of your pets liver and kidneys.  These two organs are very important in the metabolism and excretion of anaesthetic drugs from your pet’s body.  If they are not functioning properly your pet may suffer an overdose of medication and have difficulty waking up from anaesthesia.  As part of pre-anaesthetic testing, a complete blood count will also be run.  This will determine how well your pet moves oxygen around his/her body.  It will also tell us if there are signs of inflammation/infection or if your pet’s immune system is not functioning properly.  Most important for patients undergoing a surgery is a platelet count.  If platelets are low the patient may not be able to clot properly and may bleed during surgery. Sometimes, if certain blood values come back out-of-range, further testing may be required (ie a urinalysis) before an anaesthetic can proceed.  Knowing all of this allows the veterinarian to determine the safest drug protocol for your pet. 

The drug protocol should be chosen by the veterinarian with specific regard for the individual patient.  Any drug administered incorrectly can have adverse effects.  The veterinarian will determine the dose and route of each drug bearing in mind the findings of the patient history, the physical exam and the laboratory testing.

One of our basic gas anaestheia machines

“Balanced anaesthesia” should be used whenever possible.  This means that more than one drug is used to induce and maintain anaesthesia.  First a patient is given a “pre-med” to relieve anxiety and provide pre-emptive pain control.  This may make the patient drowsy but is not yet considered “general anaesthesia”.  Then the patient is induced with an induction agent which will put them under enough to allow a breathing tube to be placed in their airway.  “Intubation” allows the technician to control the patient’s airway and breathe for the patient if necessary.  It also protects the patient from aspirating fluids (blood, water, stomach contents), and allows the delivery of oxygen and anaesthetic gas.  The patient is then maintained on anaesthetic gas for the remainder of the procedure until recovery.  “Balanced anaesthesia” means that lower doses of each drug can be used minimizing the side effects of each drug. 

Rarely, some drugs can cause adverse effects in patients even when administered correctly.  It is impossible to predict which animals will react adversely to a drug that they have never had before.  Because of this is it very important to monitor anaesthetic patients closely and have an intravenous catheter in place.

If a problem arises, it is vital that the vet and technician be able to administer life saving drugs immediately.  The fastest route for these drugs is intravenously.  Unfortunately, trying to get IV access on a patient that is having a reaction (and probably has very low blood pressure) is difficult at best.  That is why an IV catheter should always be placed BEFORE anaesthesia is administered.  IV fluids can be used to increase blood pressure and provide a very fast way to administer emergency drugs.  If necessary we can also administer blood and blood products through the IV if the patient is bleeding.

All patients should have a dedicated technician monitoring them from pre-med to recovery.  While the patient is under general anaesthesia they should have their blood pressure, heart rate, respiratory rate and depth, and temperature checked regularly  and recorded on an anaesthetic record.  Trends in these values allow the veterinarian and technician to determine anaesthetic depth and adjust the amount of anaesthetic gas required to maintain a surgical plane of anaesthesia.  It is this close attention to trends in your pet’s vital signs that will alert the vet and technician that a patient is not doing well.  Early detection of an adverse reaction allows the vet and tech to correct the situation before it actually becomes a problem.  This level of monitoring should extend into the post operative recovery period.

Meghan
Reg. AHT