Where's Fido?

Pet Identification

Every pet should have some sort of identification.   After all, pet identification is in place not for everyday life, but for those unforeseen events that result in lost pets.  For the time the wind blows the fence down and the dog runs scared from the yard, or a guest leaves the front door open long enough for the wouldn’t-survive-more-than-30-seconds-in-the-wild indoor only Persian to sneak out.  Not to mention the natural disasters like floods and forest fires that send communities into chaos and force pet owners to abandon their pets in their neighborhoods or at temporary shelters as they run for their lives.   As a former animal shelter employee and “lifer” Animal Health Technician, I have re-united many a lost pet thanks to good identification.

In this blog post I will summarize the ways in which you can identify your pet to better help you decide which one will work best for you.

Pet Tags

Pet tags are a cheap, simple, and highly effective way to identify your pet.  They can be purchased at many pet stores and engraving facilities, often for around $10-$20.  They are very visible and if you put your address and phone number on the tag, whoever picks up your lost pet can very simply return it to you, often bypassing the animal shelter.  You can also have extra information engraved on the tag if your pet has a critical medical condition like “Addisons: needs daily medication” or “diabetic”.  That way if your pet is found ill, the finder will know to seek veterinary attention.

An alternative to the tag is to simply write your phone number on your pet’s collar in permanent marker.  I’ve seen this on some of my patients and I think it brilliant!  And it’s free!

The down side of pet ID Tags is that they require that your pet be wearing his/her collar.  This can be difficult with cats.  And it seems that many dogs go missing right after a bath, or the same day that the collar went in the laundry.

Tattoos

ID Tattoos are different than a breeder tattoo.  Breeders will often tattoo the belly (sometimes the ear) of each puppy in the litter to identify them and help with registration.  These tattoos often fade and become distorted as the puppy grows and are difficult to trace when a pet is lost.

 ID Tattoos are a series of letter and numbers placed in the right ear in either green or black ink.  They cost about $35.  ID tattoos are placed by veterinary clinics usually at the time of spay or neuter.  Tattoos require that a pet be under anaesthetic.  The CVBC (the veterinary governing body) has a system of letters and numbers assigned to veterinary clinics so an animal will always be traced back to the clinic that did the tattoo.  The clinic keeps records of these tattoos and can then trace the tattoo back to the owner of the pet.  This is why it is so important to keep your address and phone number current with the vet clinic that tattooed your pets. 

The system of numbers and letters used is unique to each province.  There is no nation-wide tattoo system.  If you move to another province or country with a tattooed pet, you may want to consider getting another form of identification.

Microchips

A microchip is a very small device (about the size of a grain of rice) that can be injected under the skin with a large bore needle.  It does not require anaesthetic and can be done right in the exam room.  Contrary to common belief, the microchip does not have any source of power and does not emit any radiation or electrical signal.  After placement, the microchip is read with a battery powered scanner that is waved over the pet, much the same way that the bar code on our groceries is read at the checkout.

The readout on the scanner is a series of numbers and letters.  Animal hospital and shelter staff have access to information that helps them determine which company the chip belongs to.  They can then contact that company with the microchip number and get the owners contact information. 

The advantage of this system is that you can store unlimited amounts information about your pet in the microchip company’s system.  Pet insurance info, vaccine info, medical info, all available to the shelter or vet clinic even if you aren’t!  And most companies make updating your information very easy via a 1-800 number or website.  At Sechelt Animal Hospital we use chips from M4SID which allows you to update and change information as much as you want for no additional fees.  The cost of the chip is roughly $40 and that includes a lifetime registration.  Beware of companies that require a yearly fee to maintain registration or ones that charge you to change your information.

The only downside of microchips is that they are not easily visible to the finder of the pet and that the pet must be taken to an animal hospital or shelter to have the chip read.   If your pet is microchipped you may want to add another piece of ID like a collar tag.

Adopt a Senior!

By Lisa Horne, R.A.H.T.                


                As an AHT, it really makes my day when people bring in their adorable puppies and kittens for me to play with.  I get to handle them, wrestle with them, watch them sleep, feed them cookies, and get puppy and kitten kisses all during my initial physical exam.  Even when the vet comes in to vaccinate, I love that I get to be a source of comfort for these “traumatized” babies; I love that even after a shot, they are usually just so happy to be adored that they forget about that unpleasant part of their vet visit.  The best part comes after I get my puppy/kitten cuddle time: I get to send them home.

                Don’t get me wrong:  I love puppies and kittens (who doesn’t?), but it’s really nice to give them back to Mom or Dad before they start crying, having accidents all over the floor, waking me up in the middle of the night, chewing holes in my pants or shoes, or wearing me out before my day is even half over with their endless energy.

                When most people go looking for a new fur-baby to add to the family, they want puppies and kittens; the rationale behind this is that they will have more time with the pet, be able to raise them so they become more bonded to the family as they grow up, and, of course, because they’re just so darn cute.  What many people fail to consider is the amount of destruction these cuties can cause, and the amount of work they really are.  My suggestion: adopt a senior. “But wait,” you say, “don’t seniors have their own set of problems?”  The answer is “Yes, but …”   

If you get a puppy that is, for example, a German Shepard Cross, that puppy may grow to anywhere between 20-50kg!  That’s a huge size variation and many people end up giving up their dogs when they’ve grown bigger than they expected.  With a senior, you don’t have to worry about that because they are as big as they’re going to get.  As far as behavior problems go, getting a puppy or kitten is a bit of a gamble; you never know what kind of adult they’ll grow up to be, but with a senior most behavioral problems are already known, so there’ll be no surprises; with seniors, you know exactly what you are getting yourself into.  Most seniors also come with some basic training under their belts, and (in general) have calmer dispositions than puppies/kittens; you may have to brush up on your “sits” and “stays” but they have the maturity and experience to pay attention and pick things up quickly.  Seniors also still enjoy the companionship that you can offer, but don’t need the supervision that a puppy or kitten would.  As far as bonding with your pet, you don’t have to raise it from a baby to make this happen; in fact, many seniors bond very strongly to their new owners because they’ve never known a good home, or perhaps they had a good home once and they appreciate that you can provide the security and love that they miss.  You can even teach your senior new tricks (contrary to the old wives tale); in fact, this will actually be beneficial as it provides mental stimulation for aging brains, and give you both a fun activity to do together.         

                Many people assume that getting a senior means they can’t go on long hikes, or play with the “fun” cat-toys.  This is FALSE!  I know a lot of senior dogs and cats that can put the young ones to shame with their ball-catching, bush-whacking, and wrestle-mania skills; I love watching older dogs playing with the “teenage” pups because not only can they hold their own, but they teach the young ones everything from play techniques to proper manners.  Obviously there are some limits to this, ie.  you wouldn’t put a feeble 20 year old toy poodle out to play with a strapping 18 month old mastiff, but  the main thing to take away from this is that old-age does not mean they have to be sequestered at home alone with no activities; if something is too much for them to handle, they will let you know.  As a natural process of aging, seniors will start to lose some energy and start having a hard time getting up the stairs, or slowing down on those long hikes; when this happens, it does not mean that they no longer want to do the activity.  Proper pain control (like Metacam or Deramaxx), and/or joint friendly diets (like Mobility or j/d) can help seniors continue to do the things they love in a way that is comfortable.  Sometimes all they need is a cushy bed, or a ramp to get in and out of the car.  Doing physiotherapy or massage therapy treatments at home are not only a good way to make your senior’s joints and muscles feel better, but it’s a great and relaxing way for both of you to bond.  Also, if you've had a long day and you just don’t feel like walking the dog, a senior will be alright with that too.  Try telling your very active Labrador puppy that you’ve had a long day and don’t feel up to a long walk; I guarantee you that puppy will fill your evening with chewed walls, barking, and forced playtime (they’re not being malicious, of course, they just have no other way to spend their overflowing energy). 

What about life span?  If you get a puppy or kitten, you could have it for 20 years potentially!  That’s great, but seniors have a lot of years left in them, too.  Think about it this way: let’s say you adopt an 8 year old cat.  Officially, that cat is a senior, but it’s still got anywhere between 4 to 12 years left!  That’s a lot of time.  Sure it’s not as much as you’d get with a kitten, but they’re still good years, and seniors can provide just as much entertainment and companionship.                     

    Alright, we’ve gone over the pros; let’s talk about the cons of adopting a senior.  The biggest one?  Increased vet bills.  Young pets need to see a vet at least once a year; seniors need to see their vet about twice a year and they need to have extra diagnostic work done.  This is not because your vet is trying to squeeze more money out of you; it’s because when an animal (or a person for that matter) enters their senior years, their various body parts start to decline.  Seeing your veterinarian every 6 months allows them to run bloodwork, take x-rays, and do a physical exam so that these issues of old age can be caught early, before they start to cause problems.  Cancer is more common in senior pets, but many cancers can be cured with medical and/or surgical treatments if caught early.  Some conditions, like chronic renal failure can’t be cured, but they can be slowed down, and         

the earlier you treat these conditions, the earlier you can start slowing down the disease’s progression.  Along with joint and organ decline, brain function also declines.  Dogs and cats can suffer from senility just like people and this often manifests itself as, for example, going in and out all day with that “why did I come out here?” look on their faces.  This can be helped with nutritional supplements, like DHA, or with diets geared towards improving brain fuction, like b/d; the problem will never go away, but with your patience, it doesn’t have to mean a poor quality of life.  This seems like a lot of money compared to a puppy or kitten, but there are a few things to consider.  For one thing, puppies and kittens will turn into seniors eventually, so you will have to pay for puppy and kitten related costs as well as senior costs down the line.  Also, if you adopt from a shelter, your senior would be spayed or neutered already, so there’s a major expense that you don't have to worry about.  As far as ongoing senior related problems, many shelters are already treating them so you would cover the cost of continuing treatment, not for starting it. 

                Seniors may also suffer from incontinence.  This is understandably a big problem for most people as they don’t want their house smelling like urine and feces because their pet can no longer control their excretory functions.  There are some medications, like Propalin, that can stop urinary incontinence, but otherwise it’s very frustrating to deal with.  Most incontinence occurs while the pet is sleeping, so it’s easy enough to just cover their bed with a pee pad, but this is a very frustrating problem for owners, as well as for their pets, and often results in the decision to euthanize.  One of the hardest things about owning a pet is determining when it’s time for euthanasia.  That being said, it’s a decision that you will deal with at some point no matter how old they were at the time of adoption.

                Seniors do come with their own set of issues, just like puppies and kittens do, but the best reason you could have for adopting a senior over a young one is this: they need it.  Puppies and kittens are easy to adopt out, but many seniors are doomed to live out their lives in a shelter.  Many shelters are very nice places with staff who love them dearly, but it’s just not the same as having a home and family of their own.   

                People flip over puppies and kittens, including myself, but I think that well loved and well cared for older pets are some of the most beautiful creatures on earth, even with grey muzzles and stiff joints.  Seniors have a nobility about them and a look that speaks of all the years and all the love that they still have left to give.  I know when it comes time for me to adopt a new family member, I may be looking at the puppies and kittens, but I'll be  taking home and loving a senior.


All seniors pictured here are available for adoption through S.A.I.N.T.S.  (Senior Animals In Need Today Society)-->http://www.saintsrescue.ca/

Lyme Disease

It has recently come to my attention that I really do not know enough about tick borne diseases such as Lyme disease.  I have been dealing with these nasty little hitch hikers since moving to the Sunshine Coast 6 years ago.  In the last few years, it is not uncommon for me to pull 5-8 ticks from my 2 dogs every week in the spring and summer!  So lets start at the beginning!

The ticks that spread Lyme disease in B.C., Ixodes angustus and I. pacificus are tiny bugs, about the size of a sesame seed, and they feed on blood. Different ticks prefer different types of animals.  While most tick bites do not result in disease, some do.  In BC less than 1 percent of ticks tested carry the bacteria that cause Lyme disease, and there is only a very small chance of them giving it to you. However, the disease can be serious, so it is worth taking steps to avoid being bitten. 

Lyme disease is classified as a vector-borne, zoonotic illness – it is spread by ticks (the vector, or agent of transmission). The organism which causes Lyme disease is a spiral-shaped bacterium called Borrelia burgdorfei and it has been found in two species of ticks collected from many areas of B.C. including Vancouver Island, the Lower Mainland, the Sunshine Coast, the Fraser Valley and the Kootenays.

Avoiding exposure to ticks is the surest means of prevention, but here on the Sunshine Coast we have lots! After your dog has been out in wooded or deep grassy areas (ticks love cedar and arbutus trees!) do a thorough tick-check, which involves looking your dog over closely (especially around the armpits, face, and groin areas) for ticks. There are tick repellant products (collars and topical) available at the veterinary office.  Additionally, there is a vaccine against the organism that causes Lyme disease available at Sechelt Animal Hospital.

Some people think you can remove a tick by covering it with grease, gasoline or some other substance. This does not work! It only increases the chance of your pet getting an infection. Holding something hot (for example, a match or cigarette) against the tick also does NOT work! Again, this will only increase the chance of an infection or accidentally burning yourself or your pet.  The simplest way of removing ticks is by using a pair of tweezers or tick removing forceps and grabbing the tick as close to the skin as possible. Then using gentle, slow traction pull the tick straight off.  Do not squish, squeeze or twist.  After removal of the tick it is necessary to check it for all the mouth parts.  Leaving the mouth parts in the skin can lead to infection.  Once the tick is removed clean the area well with antibacterial soap, place the tick in a airtight container and dispose of it. If you are concerned or these little bugs give you the heebie jeebies, please allow us to remove it for you!

Tests are available that are quick, accurate and inexpensive. Your dog comes in for a simple blood test (less than 0.5 ml of blood is needed) and the test results are back the very next day. Should your dog be positive for exposure to the organism that causes Lyme disease we will consult with you on the next steps to take and start your dog on effective treatment as soon as possible. In endemic areas like the Sunshine Coast testing is recommended 6-8 weeks after exposure to ticks.  In my experience the ticks seem to be prevalent all year round, so as a general rule testing yearly with your annual vaccinations is the simplest.

If you are concerned about ticks and Lyme disease please feel free to contact our office to schedule an appointment.

Samantha 

Reg. AHT

What's the Big Deal? A nutrition update.

As you may have noticed there are some new diets on the shelf this year.  Medi-cal/Royal Canin as changed many of their formulations to accommodate your pet's individual needs.  The canine life-stage diets: Development, Preventive, Dental, and Weight Control/Mature have now been formulated specifically for small breeds and for large breeds.

The small breed diets not only have a smaller kibble designed for small mouths and jaws, but also are formulated to prevent the formation of urinary crystals and stones that small dogs are particularly prone to.

The large breed diets all have a larger kibble design for larger mouths and jaws, have an adjusted caloric count to prevent obesity, and contain EPA/DHA, glucosamine and chondrotin to reduce inflammation of the joints and support joint health in the large dog.

So... what about medium dogs you ask?

Each diet also will continue to carry the formulation that you have all been used to seeing, but they are now calling it the "all dog" formula.

They have also introduced a brand new diet - Weight Control Puppy for all the roly poly pups!
Weight Control/Mature has also been separated into Weight Control and Mature Consult.

So what does this mean to you and your pet?
It means that we can now customise your pet's diet for optimum health.

As you may be finding all these changes a little confusing, please feel free to contact or office and speak to any of the team members to find out which diet is going to be best for your dog's particular needs.

Samantha
Reg. AHT

Show me a Yorkie that can take down a Cow!

Should you feed your pet a raw food diet?

Dogs were domesticated from wolves approx. 10,000 to 135,000 years ago.  Recent DNA research shows that this occurred in stages in different areas, and that not all dog breeds came from the same wolf or from the same demographic area. Domestication of cats started much later than it did for dogs, about 8,000 years ago, with full domestication taking place only 4,000 years ago.  The primary ancestor of the domestic cat is believed to be the African wild cat, Felis libyca.  During this time, dogs were hunters and cats were vermin killers on the farms.  As we evolved from a hunting society to a farming society our needs also changed.

Dogs did not continue to hunt and eat raw foods once domesticated; they primarily eat out leftovers and scraps.  Because we have not consumed a raw diet since fire was discovered, our dogs did not eat raw food either.  Cats were domesticated for their ability to control small vermin on the farm, they have continued to eat a raw food diet for a much longer period of time.

Raw food diets are nutritionally superior to processed diets and are “what nature intended dogs and cats to eat.”

Myth: There is no scientific evidence showing that raw food diets are nutritionally superior to processed food.  All processed foods are required to meet AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) standards.  These standards can be met in one of 2 ways.  They can be formulated to meet AAFCO standards or feeding trials can be done.  Feeding trials are the preferred method, since this looks at the nutrient content and the nutrient loss due to processing and digestibility.  Raw food diets overall are not marketed as “complete and balanced” and therefore do not meet AAFCO standards because they have not done feeding trials.  Some raw diets have this claim and meet AFFCO standards, but this claim means that they are “complete and balanced” over a period of time, not for each meal.  Some raw food diets may be nutritionally superior to some commercial diets, such as poor quality foods that have not gone through feeding trials, use lower grade ingredients, and have high cereal contents.  Feeding any premium quality food would show an improvement just due to the increased quality of the ingredients used.  Pet food manufactures know what changes occur with the processing methods and supplement as needed to maintain optimum nutrient levels.

Domesticated species tolerate bacterial contamination in food without problems, even if they are pediatric, geriatric or critically ill animals.

There is no scientific evidence to support this claim, and in fact 3 studies have found either bacterial contamination in the food or dishes or death related to pathogenic bacteria directly related to the diet being fed. (Freeman and Michel, 2001; LeJeune and Hancock, 2001; Striver et al., 2003)  Many food borne pathogens can be found and cultured from these diets.  20-25 % of chicken carcasses intended for human consumption test positive for Salmonella organisms.  E.coli has been identified in dog feces being fed a raw food diet.  As much as 89 % of the commercially available raw meats may be contaminated with Yersinia enterocolitica.  There are also food borne parasitic infections that can also affect dogs and cats, including tapeworms of the bile duct, pancreatic duct and small intestines; the giant kidney worm, raccoon roundworms and Sarcocystis spp., Toxocara canis and Tricenella spiralis.

Uncooked food is more easily digested because it contains enzymes that cooking destroys.

Some nutrients are destroyed by heat, but not all heat sensitive nutrients are eliminated during the cooking process.  This is dependent on how the food was processed, stored and cooked.  Heat can affect proteins.  Proteins can be denatured.  This happens with egg whites when they are cooked – the albumin becomes denatured and easier for the body to digest.  Some proteins in meat also exist as enzymes.  Raw food manufactures say that these enzymes become inactive when cooked, but these enzymes also become inactive when the meet up with the digestive enzymes in the stomach.  There are other enzymes that are resistant to digestion and may or may not be affected by stomach acid or heat from cooking.  For the enzymes that are affected by heat there is little evidence to suggest that they are more beneficial to animals that eat them raw.  As carbohydrates are heated and cooled with water, the cells undergo a process called gelatinization.  The greater the degree of gelatinization, the greater the degree of digestibility.  The central nervous system and the red blood cells need glucose for energy, and this is most easily obtained from carbohydrates.  Remember that an excess will be stored as glycogen and fat.

Since there are no feeding trials done with the majority of raw food diets, their nutrient content, digestibility and supplementation levels are unknown. By using raw meats you are leaving yourself and your pet open to bacterial or parasitic infections, and there is no guarantee of improved health. 

Samantha
Reg. AHT

Bad Cat Diseases - FeLV, FIV, and FIP

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)

FIV is retrovirus that causes an immunodeficiency disease in domestic cats.  It has the same genus as HIV (aids in humans).  Infection disrupts the immune system function causing the cat to become more susceptible to secondary infections.  There is no cure, and treatment is limited to treating the secondary infections. Transmission is cat-to-cat through bite wounds, and occasionally it can be transmitted perinatally (during birthing). 

Prevention includes preventing contact with other cats, and screening prior to introducing new cats into the household.  There is a vaccine available, but only 60-80% efficacy after 3 doses.  Testing cannot distinguish between vaccinated and infected cats, so vaccinated cats will always test positive.

Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)

A systemic, viral disease characterized by insidious onset, persistent nonresponsive fever, pyogranulomatous tissue reaction, accumulation of exudative effusions in body cavities, and high mortality.  This virus is multisystemic affecting liver, kidneys, intestines, lungs, brain and eyes.  FIP is a reaction to infection with the feline coronavirus.  The coronavirus mutates and FIP is the result of immunocompromised young cats. FIP is a disease created by the cat’s own immune system.  There are 2 forms of FIP.  The “wet” form includes the effusion of thick, yellow fluid in the belly or chest.  The “dry” form is more insidious, leading to a long, slow death.  Both forms are felt to have 100% mortality. 

Transmission with coronavirus is primarily through infected feces.  Prevention is limited to preventing overcrowding, and exposure to infected feces.  We can test for positive antibodies to the virus, but it does not distinguish between coronavirus and FIP.  There is a vaccine available, but its efficacy is unknown.  There is no known cure or treatment available.

Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV)

FeLV is another retrovirus that causes an immunodeficiency disease in cats.  This virus is species specific and does not infect dogs or humans, but there is evidence of the disease in wild cats such as lynx, cheetah and lion.
After the initial infection, the virus replicates in the tonsils and pharyngeal lymph nodes (the pharynx is the muscular tube in the neck). Then it spreads via the bloodstream to other parts of the body, especially the lymph nodes, bone marrow, and intestinal tissue, where it continues to replicate. Viremia, the presence of virus in the blood, usually shows up 2 to 4 weeks after the initial infection.
FeLV usually spreads through infected saliva. It can also spread through infected urine, tears, and feces, and through an infected mother to her kittens during gestation and nursing. Methods of transmission include the following:

• Bite wounds from infected cats (more common among outdoor and indoor-outdoor cats)
• Blood transfusions
• Mouth and nose contact with infected saliva or urine
• Mutual grooming
• Nose-to-nose contact
• Shared food dishes and water bowls
• Shared litter trays
• Sneezing

Because cats normally may not appear to be sick until they are in an advanced state of illness, it is vital that cat owners pay close attention to their pets' day-to-day condition. Cats should be examined regularly for painful or swollen areas.  30% of cats infected with the disease will progress and die.  Treatments may help to slow the progression of disease, but are not 100& effective in all cases.
FeLV is one of the most devastating feline diseases worldwide.  Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) infection is responsible for more deaths among cats than any other infectious disease.


Samantha 
Reg.AHT

Anaestheia - How Safe is it?

The fact is, anaesthesia is as dangerous or as safe as your animal hospital makes it.  All anaesthesia contains risks.  Anaesthesia is defined as a state of controlled and and reversible unconsciousness characterized by a lack of pain sensation and a lack of memory, and relatively depressed reflex responses.  Ideally, it is the goal of the veterinarian and technician to achieve this with minimal affect on your pets vital systems, particularly circulation and respiration.  There are a series of steps your veterinarian and technician will take to ensure your pet’s anaesthetic goes as smooth and safe as possible.

Microscopic evaluation of blood

Typical red blood cells at100X

The first step is a thorough history from you, the client.  Your veterinarian needs to know how your pet has been doing at home.  Any signs of illness like coughing, sneezing, vomiting or diarrhea?  Has there been an increase in water consumption?  Any changes in behaviour?  Any relevant travel history?  Does your pet have a history of any medical problems?  Is your pet on any current medications or supplements?  Answers to these questions may give your veterinarian insight as to whether your pet is at risk for an illness or disease process that may affect his/her reaction to anaesthetic drugs.

The next step is a thorough physical examination by the veterinarian.  The vet will take your pets temperature, palpate his/her internal organs, assess hydration and evaluate his/her circulatory and respiratory systems.  This will further help the veterinarian assess health. 

Pre-anaesthetic blood work is the next vital step in creating a safe anaesthetic.  Blood chemistry helps the veterinarian determine the health of your pets liver and kidneys.  These two organs are very important in the metabolism and excretion of anaesthetic drugs from your pet’s body.  If they are not functioning properly your pet may suffer an overdose of medication and have difficulty waking up from anaesthesia.  As part of pre-anaesthetic testing, a complete blood count will also be run.  This will determine how well your pet moves oxygen around his/her body.  It will also tell us if there are signs of inflammation/infection or if your pet’s immune system is not functioning properly.  Most important for patients undergoing a surgery is a platelet count.  If platelets are low the patient may not be able to clot properly and may bleed during surgery. Sometimes, if certain blood values come back out-of-range, further testing may be required (ie a urinalysis) before an anaesthetic can proceed.  Knowing all of this allows the veterinarian to determine the safest drug protocol for your pet. 

The drug protocol should be chosen by the veterinarian with specific regard for the individual patient.  Any drug administered incorrectly can have adverse effects.  The veterinarian will determine the dose and route of each drug bearing in mind the findings of the patient history, the physical exam and the laboratory testing.

One of our basic gas anaestheia machines

“Balanced anaesthesia” should be used whenever possible.  This means that more than one drug is used to induce and maintain anaesthesia.  First a patient is given a “pre-med” to relieve anxiety and provide pre-emptive pain control.  This may make the patient drowsy but is not yet considered “general anaesthesia”.  Then the patient is induced with an induction agent which will put them under enough to allow a breathing tube to be placed in their airway.  “Intubation” allows the technician to control the patient’s airway and breathe for the patient if necessary.  It also protects the patient from aspirating fluids (blood, water, stomach contents), and allows the delivery of oxygen and anaesthetic gas.  The patient is then maintained on anaesthetic gas for the remainder of the procedure until recovery.  “Balanced anaesthesia” means that lower doses of each drug can be used minimizing the side effects of each drug. 

Rarely, some drugs can cause adverse effects in patients even when administered correctly.  It is impossible to predict which animals will react adversely to a drug that they have never had before.  Because of this is it very important to monitor anaesthetic patients closely and have an intravenous catheter in place.

If a problem arises, it is vital that the vet and technician be able to administer life saving drugs immediately.  The fastest route for these drugs is intravenously.  Unfortunately, trying to get IV access on a patient that is having a reaction (and probably has very low blood pressure) is difficult at best.  That is why an IV catheter should always be placed BEFORE anaesthesia is administered.  IV fluids can be used to increase blood pressure and provide a very fast way to administer emergency drugs.  If necessary we can also administer blood and blood products through the IV if the patient is bleeding.

All patients should have a dedicated technician monitoring them from pre-med to recovery.  While the patient is under general anaesthesia they should have their blood pressure, heart rate, respiratory rate and depth, and temperature checked regularly  and recorded on an anaesthetic record.  Trends in these values allow the veterinarian and technician to determine anaesthetic depth and adjust the amount of anaesthetic gas required to maintain a surgical plane of anaesthesia.  It is this close attention to trends in your pet’s vital signs that will alert the vet and technician that a patient is not doing well.  Early detection of an adverse reaction allows the vet and tech to correct the situation before it actually becomes a problem.  This level of monitoring should extend into the post operative recovery period.

Meghan
Reg. AHT